University of Washington Press. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimono. Check patterns are popular for men's kimono. Men's kimono are usually below knee to calf length, rather than ankle length. Although this can be extremely expensive, it is generally less expensive than arai hari but may be impossible for certain fabrics or dyes.
Haori are fastened with a himo, a silk braid with a large knot, which hooks onto little loops on the inner edge of each of the haori fronts, the knot lies in view in the gap between the fronts.
On men's haori, the himo knot is never untied, the himo is simply unhooked at one side to unfasten the haori. On women's haori, however, the himo is narrower and is tied to fasten it, with a special knot, of course, and untied to open it. Haori and himo are bought separately, one himo may be used on multiple haori, especially as they can be very expensive. A himo is an accessory, like a belt in western clothing Haori kimono jackets sometimes have wonderfully patterned linings, either a woven pattern, a printed one or a beautifully hand painted one, often of landscape scenes or animals, tea ceremony items, lucky items, processions etc.
Men's haori with decorative linings look particularly good hung as wall displays, inside out, often with the front edges pulled out at the sides. If well made inside, nowadays they are sometimes worn inside out too, in the west. You can see a bit of a particularly fine example of a hand painted haori lining in the picture at the top of this page. A hoari is also great for relaxing around the house, worn over just a pair of jogging bottoms or pj bottoms M en's kimono are most often black, grey, blue or brown, muted colours, though they also often have a subtle pattern in the weave or print, with muted colourings in the pattern, including, plums and greens, the pattern still giving an overall tasteful hue.
Check patterns are popular for men's kimono. More casual kimono may include slightly brighter colours in their pattern, such as purples, brighter greens and blues but the colouring looks subdued overall. Only sumo wrestlers, if they choose, wear very bright colours on the outside sumo wrestlers must wear traditional Japanese clothing whenever in public.
Men's kimono are not overtly decorative, unlike women's ones, but the haori jacket linings and the jubans 'underwear' kimono are men's discreet way of having fabulous designs on their clothing. This hidden decorativeness was born out of quiet revolution; as wafuku became more and more ostentatious, laws were passed at times to limit what certain classes could wear, to ensure rich merchant classes couldn't outdo the less wealthy of the higher rated samurai classes and such, so they took to hiding the ostentation by having fabulous patterns, colours and quality of fabric hidden beneath the outerwear in the linings and the underwear kimonos.
Almost any man's kimono can be made more formal by adding a haori or hakama but the most formal is the black with the 5 kamon crests, also called mon black montuki kimono being the most formal of all.
M en's yukata unlined, cotton, casual, summer kimono are worn by Japanese men at summer festivals, for lounging indoors and as bathrobes but also for sleeping in. A traditional favourite is white with dark blue designs but there are, of course, many other colour variations too, though usually fairly muted in tone if they are for outdoor wear M en fasten their kimono with an obi.
Further down this page is a link to instructions on how tie one in a traditional clam knot, this same knot can also be used for the type of obi for women's yukata kimono.
Traditionally the knot is positioned at the back. A kaku obi is slightly stiff and has a knot like the one shown further down this page. A heku obi is a soft, incredibly long obi, usually silk, rather like an extra long, wide, slightly stretchy silk scarf, which is considered more casual, usually for home wear, and is wound round two to three times with the depth allowed to gather up and tied in just a simple and informal knot.
Kimono and obi are always bought separately, one obi may be worn with various kimono H akama is a divided umanori or undivided andon 'skirt', rather like a very wide pair of trousers, traditionally worn by men but now also worn by some women. Videos below show how to put on hakama and how to fold one. They are also worn in martial arts such as aikido. A hakama typically has pleats, a koshita a stiff padded part at the lower back of the wearer and himo, which are long lengths of fabric tied at the waist, in a specific and rather complicated but very attractive manner.
Hakama are worn in several Japanese martial arts, such as kendo, iaido, aikido, and naginata. Hakama can range from very formal to informal visiting wear, depending on fabric pattern. Andon are the undivided hakama and umanori are divided ones, with legs divided but from fairly low down the garment.
Very formal men's outfits usually consist of kimono worn with hakama. The original function of hakama was to protect the clothing, much like American cowboy's chaps, and not, as is often said, to hide the deft footwork of the samurai. They became part of formal dress of the samurai classes, worn with a top garment called a kataginu; together the hakama and kataginu are called a kamishimo; with commoners given leave to wear this ensemble on special occasions only.
The kataginu is usually made of cotton or silk, some are ro silk, a light, airy silk for summer wear, to match the hakama, vintage ones have stiffening bamboo inserts and a paper lining.
The typical woman's kimono outfit consists of twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched, and secured in prescribed ways, and the assistance of licensed professional kimono dressers may be required. Called upon mostly for special occasions, kimono dressers both work out of hair salons and make house calls.
Choosing an appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the garment's symbolism and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion. Furisode are the most formal kimono for unmarried women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire garment. They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies seijin shiki and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.
They may also be worn to formal parties. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured rinzu , similar to jacquard , but has no differently colored patterns. It comes from the word "muji" which means plain or solid and "iro" which means color. The term refers to kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment.
This style is more casual and may be worn around town, or dressed up with a formal obi for a restaurant.
Both married and unmarried women may wear komon. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. Mofuku is formal mourning dress for men or women. Both men and women wear kimono of plain black silk with five kamon over white undergarments and white tabi. For women, the obi and all accessories are also black. Men wear a subdued obi and black and white or black and gray striped hakama with black or white zori.
The completely black mourning ensemble is usually reserved for family and others who are close to the deceased. The feature of it is the short sleeve, the traditional main color of body is black, the lap of kimono has some simple pattern and elegant color.
Irotomesode with five family crests are the same as formal as kurotomesode , and are worn by married and unmarried women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at weddings and a medal ceremony at the royal court. An irotomesode may have three or one kamon. Those use as a semi-formal kimono at a party and conferment. They are the most formal kimono for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at weddings. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.
They may also be worn by married women. The differences from homongi is the size of the pattern, seam connection, and not same clothes at inside and outside at hakke As demitoilet, not used in important occasion, but light patterned homongi is more highly rated than classic patterned tsukesage.
General tsukesage is often used for parties, not ceremonies. The uchikake is often heavily brocaded and is supposed to be worn outside the actual kimono and obi , as a sort of coat. One therefore never ties the obi around the uchikake. It is supposed to trail along the floor, this is also why it is heavily padded along the hem. The uchikake of the bridal costume is either white or very colorful often with red as the base colour.
The susohiki is usually worn by geisha or by stage performers of the traditional Japanese dance. It is quite long, compared to regular kimono, because the skirt is supposed to trail along the floor. Susohiki literally means "trail the skirt". Where a normal kimono for women is normally 1. This is also why geisha and maiko lift their kimono skirt when walking outside, also to show their beautiful underkimono or "nagajuban" see below.
An important accessory was an elaborate fan , which could be tied together by a rope when folded. These robes are one of the most expensive items of Japanese clothing. Only the Imperial Household still officially uses them at some important functions. In contrast to women's kimono, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of five pieces, not including footwear.
Men's kimono sleeves are attached to the body of the kimono with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, unlike the women's style of very deep sleeves mostly unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way.
In the modern era, the principal distinctions between men's kimono are in the fabric. The typical men's kimono is a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues, greens, and browns are common.
Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimono. More casual kimono may be made in slightly brighter colors, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colors such as fuchsia.
The most formal style of kimono is plain black silk with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three- kamon kimono.
In modern-day Japan the meanings of the layering of kimono and hiyoku are usually forgotten. Only maiko and geisha now use this layering technique for dances and subtle erotic suggestion, usually emphasising the back of the neck. Modern Japanese brides may also wear a traditional Shinto bridal kimono which is worn with a hiyoku.
Traditionally kimonos were worn with hiyoku or floating linings. Hiyoku can be a second kimono worn beneath the first and give the traditional layered look to the kimono. Often in modern kimonos the hiyoku is simply the name for the double-sided lower half of the kimono which may be exposed to other eyes depending on how the kimono is worn.
Old-fashioned kimono styles meant that hiyoku were entire under-kimono, however modern day layers are usually only partial, to give the impression of layering. In the past, a kimono would often be entirely taken apart for washing, and then re-sewn for wearing.
Because the stitches must be taken out for washing, traditional kimono need to be hand sewn. Arai hari is very expensive and difficult and is one of the causes of the declining popularity of kimono. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been developed that eliminate this need, although the traditional washing of kimono is still practiced, especially for high-end garments.
New, custom-made kimono are generally delivered to a customer with long, loose basting stitches placed around the outside edges. These stitches are called shitsuke ito. They are sometimes replaced for storage. They help to prevent bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's layers in alignment.
Like many other traditional Japanese garments, there are specific ways to fold kimono. These methods help to preserve the garment and to keep it from creasing when stored. Kimono need to be aired out at least seasonally and before and after each time they are worn. Many people prefer to have their kimono dry cleaned. Although this can be extremely expensive, it is generally less expensive than arai hari but may be impossible for certain fabrics or dyes.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. For other uses, see Kimono disambiguation. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on University of Washington Press. The Story of the Kimono. Oxford University Press, p. Retrieved 12 August Asia-Pacific Saving the kimono".
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